Hiking the White Mountains: 2023 Recap
This summer for me was about getting into the White Mountains - and I did my best to experience as much as possible while I was there! As with everything I write, this is simply my experience; I am by no means an expert but wanted to share my point of view and a few watchouts that I believe are good to be aware of if you’re planning a trip soon or were wondering about the White Mountain experience. I tried to make this less of a ramble and more of a cohesive outline, but here we go:
Why me and why NH: I grew up spending summers at sleep away camp in the Lake Winnipesauke region, so the state of New Hampshire has always had a special place in my heart. It wasn’t until my late 20s that I took up hiking as a more serious hobby, so my first trip in recent years was in 2019 to the Lincoln and Littleton areas. After that year, I shifted to some hiking goals (slightly) closer to home. Having completed my Adirondack 46er and Catskills 3500 in the last year, I knew it was now time to shift my focus and continue to explore the New England region - and work on my NE111, which the NH 48 is a huge part of!
My overall experience: I hiked these solo with the exception of the Tripyramids my second trip up (it was just the way scheduling worked out, not for a particular reason.) I had planned my first trip of the summer 6 months in advance, so a few factors changed that I wasn’t anticipating; however, not to fear, since I was looking forward to the trip no matter what.
I can honestly say I felt safe on the trails, in the parking lots, and in town in general as a solo female hiker. It could have also been the time of year (peak summer months) so I never felt truly alone for long periods of time.
I was also pleasantly surprised how much cell reception I had most of the time, but as always, I didn’t rely on it too much. (I carry a Garmin Inreach with me for emergencies.)
Roads to the trailheads: from the 17 peaks I’ve completed so far, I had no challenges getting down the roads to the trailheads with my front wheel drive Jetta (the only one I was slightly nervous on was the road to Hale; but still not a major concern when looking back.) However, I heard there are many road closures to key trailheads in the winter months, so ensure to check ahead of time if you’re heading out in the winter or shoulder seasons, if extra mileage is needed for that particular hike.
Note on trailheads and parking lots:
There are no trail logs like in NY state, so no signing in at trailheads!
I was nervous having read about the frequent car break-ins at many parking lots off of the highway, so was vigilant about not leaving anything in plain sight (a rule I typically live by no matter where I drive to.) I didn’t have any issues with this during my trip, but honestly, I was always relieved every time I came back from a hike and saw my car the way I left it.
Many trailheads are free to park at, but some have a small fee - take a look online ahead of time so there are no surprises and you’re prepared. It’s always a good idea to have some cash on you just in case (and for the routes you encounter the huts if you need a snack! I believe they also take Venmo though.)
I found road parking and restrooms more widely available than compared to the ADK… just my observation!
Search and rescue: I would recommend purchasing the NH Fish and Game Hike Safe Card. It’s $25 and if you have to get rescued, you are covered from a financial standpoint. More on that here.
Cell service: note it is spotty on the Kancamagus Highway and trails that pick up from there (e.g., Hancocks and Tripyramids.) Other hikes and trails I had spotty and or full cell service at. I haven’t been near Gorham yet, so can’t speak to the trails in that section.
The essentials: many of the summits and ridge walks are 5,000+ feet above sea level: so, you’re closer to the sun AKA exposed significantly to the elements. Make sure to reapply sunscreen frequently - don’t be like me on Franconia Ridge on a bluebird day!
Don’t underestimate the elements: be prepared with layers, rain gear, and more dry clothes - even if it’s 80 degrees and a clear day at the trailhead. This could change very quickly without warning.
Some trails have water sources and you can fill up at the AMC huts for free (if it’s on your route.) Know this ahead of time so there are no surprises and you are equipped to stay hydrated / fueled.
Need a ride? This is still an area I need to investigate more thoroughly, as it’s what essentially prohibited me from doing any traverses since I was solo. I think there are a few services that you can arrange, and I know that there is a shuttle (with fee) you can reserve for certain times for the Presidential Range; however, I think Uber and cabs in general are far and few (no different than the ADK.) if I am able to crack this and have substantial information to share, I will update this. All of the hikes I completed started and ended at the same trailhead, so I didn’t have to worry about this aspect (and/ or if I would have cell service to reach them.)
Where to stay: Still feeling this out a bit, but from my experience, try to book lodging well in advance (if you can) or take advantage of the AMC hut system (still need reservations and are sometimes not more cost effective than other accommodations.)
If the idea of camping doesn’t appeal to you or if you are going for an extended period of time / weather is not looking in your favor etc… I stayed at the Lodge at Lincoln Station, located in Lincoln (slightly past the grocery store/ main town area.) The benefit for summer was having access to a pool and river on property as well as units including kitchens if you don’t like to eat out all the time (like me when I’m traveling for extended periods of time.) There are restaurants in town but be sure to check operating hours ahead of time because many are only open certain hours / days.
My final and perhaps most important note: Don’t be discouraged if you have to orphan a hike or are feeling unmotivated after an extremely challenging day. I had to remind myself multiple times this summer that there were many factors and conditions that were not in my favor, no matter how much I planned and prepared for this. It doesn’t mean for me to give up or stop trying; I just had to shift my approach and perspective, by being a bit kinder to myself. At the end of the day, I love being out there on the trails, no matter how many mountains I summited or miles I hiked, constantly challenging myself and discovering new places. That is what energizes me and what it’s about.
That’s all I can think of right now, but send me a note if you have any questions or comments! We’ll see what next year brings…
View from Franconia Ridge in July!